Veggie seeds that can be planted in August


The table below lists which vegetable seeds can be planted this month in North East Melbourne. In addition, for each vegetable, it shows: how it should be planted (direct, seed trays, etc); how far apart to plant it; its lifecycle (annual, perennial, etc); its moon phase planting quarter (for those doing moon phase planting) and its crop rotation group (for those doing crop rotation). It is an extract from our North East Melbourne veggie & herb planting guide.

 PlantMoon phase
Asparagus3rdcrowns30cmin its own bedperennial
Beetroot3rdsow direct20cmrootsbiennial grown as annual
Capsicum2ndin seed trays50cmsolanumsshort-lived perennial
Chilli2ndin seed trays30cmsolanumsshort-lived perennial
Coriander1stsow direct30cmanywhereannual
Eggplant2ndin seed trays30cmsolanumsshort-lived perennial
Globe artichoke3rdsow direct90cmin its own bedperennial
Leeks3rdin seed trays10cmrootsbiennial grown as annual
Lettuce1stsow direct or in seed trays20cmanywhereannual or biennial
Mustard greens1stsow direct30cmbrassicasannual
Onion3rdin seed trays10cmrootsbiennial grown as annual
Parsnip3rdsow direct10cmrootsbiennial grown as annual
Potato3rdtubers30cmsolanumsperennial grown as annual
Radish3rdsow direct5cm anywhereannual
Rocket1stsow direct25cmbrassicasannual
Shallot3rdbulbs15cmrootsperennial grown as annual
Spring onions3rdsow direct2cm rootsbiennial grown as annual
Tomato2ndin seed trays15cmsolanumsannual

Moon phase planting

Lots of people (including, by anecdote, many farmers) practice moon-phase planting whereby different types of veggie are planted at different times in the moon’s 28-day cycle.

The basic idea/assumption/rationale/sophistry is that one wants to root crops to grow downwards, and thus when the upward pull of the moon is lessening, and thus when the moon is waning. By contrast, one wants leafy and fruity crops to grow upwards, and thus when the upward pull of the moon is increasing, and thus when the moon is waxing. This gives the following phasing:

  • 1st quarter: leafy – plant crops where one eats the leaves/foliage.
  • 2nd quarter: fruits – plant crops where one eats the fruit.
  • 3rd quarter: roots – plant root crops.
  • 4th quarter: have a rest!

Crop rotation

As fruity things, cucurbits (cucumbers, etc) and solanums (tomatoes, etc) are heavy feeders. Brassicas (cabbages, etc) are medium feeders. As rooty things, alliums (onions, etc) and umbellifers (carrots, etc) are light feeders. Legumes (beans, etc) are non-feeders (they can fix their own nitrogen). Many leafy greens (lettuce, spinach, silverbeet, etc) don’t have much impact on the soil and can thus be planted anywhere. So, one sensible crop rotation would be:

  1. Legumes (beans, peas etc).
  2. Brassicas (cabbage, broccoli, etc).
  3. Alliums (onions, leeks, etc).
  4. Cucurbits (cucumber, pumpkin, etc).
  5. Umbellifers (carrots etc).
  6. Solanums (tomatoes, potatoes, etc).

This is a 6-year crop rotation. To make it shorter, you have to do one or more of three things:

  1. Combine some things: so, for example, combine alliums and umbellifers as ‘roots’.
  2. Omit some things: so, for example, never plant brassicas.
  3. Plant a cool season crop (e.g. brassicas) followed by a warm season crop (e.g. solanums or cucurbits) into a single bed over the course of a year.

You also have to decide whether the annual rotation should be in Spring or in Autumn.

For a comprehensive discussion of crop rotation, read Angelo Eliades’ article.

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